Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts

Friday, 22 May 2009

Garden cafe

kipos cafe hania chania
Kipos cafe, in the municipal park of Hania; a great place to rest and people-watch, but at a price: these two items came to 6.20 euro (never mind the fact that we have about 600 orange trees in our village fields). At least the toilets were worth it.
kipos cafe hania chania

Sunday, 10 May 2009

Coffee with a view but not a smell


Enjoying a cappuccino and a good book at Koum Kapi.

The housing settlement on the promontory in the left hand side of the photo is relatively new. The houses in this area, called Koumbeli, are very modern, nearly all of them less than 15 years old. It is considered a rather posh area, mainly due to the middle-class (and above) residents.

It is also the smelliest area in Hania; there are days when the 150 privileged people who live there cannot open their windows due to the retching stink that pervades the air. Koumbeli is located just above the waste management plant where the waste of the whole town is 'cleaned' before being thrown into the sea...

Tuesday, 3 February 2009

The good life

... And another coffee at Koum Kapi. This time, I must say that it was one of the best cappuccinos I've had in years. What a shame the cup wasn't larger.

cappuccino at koum kapi

Last week was too cold to sit outdoors, but this time, when it's snowing and -6 degrees Cesius in London, here in Hania it was too warm to even wear a jacket, despite the dull look of the weather. Quite a contrast to summer time Wellington...

You must think I'm having a marvellous time here in Hania, with all those outdoor coffees. Yes, maybe I am. Maybe everyone in the whole of Greece thinks we Cretans enjoy the good life here on a daily basis.

The Cretan people know how to make themselves get noticed. Now the farmers of the island are the top news story in the country.

The farmers of the whole country blocked the roads linking the north to the south, while the Cretan farmers blocked the roads leading from the west to the east. The government heard their pleas, and offered a 645 million euro salvage packet for Greek farmers who have lost a quarter of their income over the last decade (and from what I understand, this is a problem in farming worldwide). But this package did not include Cretan farmers.

Why? Maybe because they think we're rich(er than other Greek farmers). But we're still a part of Greece, so why did the government discriminate against the Cretan farmers whose produce feeds the country throughout the winter? I know the sunshine is free, but surely Cretan farmers also run up costs, suffer losses and work hard to produce a good crop. They certainly don't have the same field area as farmers in the north, who need a huge expanse of land to produce crops like cotton and tobacco (neither of which are eaten).

The Cretan farmers have rejected the package saying it offers too little for their region. Other agricultural groups are keeping a key border crossing with Bulgaria closed, complaining that the government assistance plan provides no long-term solution to their declining income.


Now the Cretan farmers have taken their protest over handouts to Athens today by driving their tractors into the city center at the same time that Agricultural Development Minister Sotiris Hatzigakis will be attempting to convince the European Union that the 500 million euros the Greek government wants to pump into the ailing sector does not contravene the bloc’s rules.

Despite an attempt by a prosecutor on Crete to stop farmers driving dozens of tractors onto a ferry bound for Piraeus last night, hundreds of disgruntled locals boarded the vessel and plan to drive the vehicles to the Agricultural Development Ministry today.

The farmers did eventually get to Pireaus with their tractors. Riot police blocked groups of protesting Cretan farmers from leaving the port of Piraeus, Greece's busiest, early Monday morning. The farmers, roughly 1,100 strong with scores of pick-up trucks and a few dozen tractors, disembarked from three ferry boats arriving from the large Aegean island in order to hold a protest in front of the agriculture ministry in downtown Athens.

Police used tear gas to prevent protesting farmers from leaving the port area, which is located in congested Piraeus. Tension continued for the following hours, while farmers claimed four of their colleagues were injured and several others were arrested.

My compatriots came armed (they threw potatoes at the police); they insisted on seeing the Minister of Agriculture (who was in Brussels at the time). I don't know what the outcome of this will be, but I can't imagine anything positive will come out of it. If anything is promised, promises are meant to be broken. And in the current economic climate, especially given that Greece is heavily in debt, surely only a fool would believe what is being promised.

In any case, the Cretans have managed so far to halt ship traffic to Crete - no ferry boat is leaving the harbours destined for Megalonisos (the Big Island, as we are nicknamed) - and the farmers are camping out at the port tonight, so there's bound to be a party going on in the evening at Pireaus. Just keep an ear out for the mantinades and you'll find them.

UPDATE: So it's back home on theTuesday evening ferry boat for the Cretan farmers, who made their presence known in Athens, which they claim was their main prerogative in going to Athens. The were met by many opposition politicians (Greece is heading for early elections, so now is a good time to campaign), while the only government officials to meet with them were representatives from the police, who used tear gas, even while one of the opposition politicians was present 'in support of the Cretan farmers' (don't forget that he is also demanding the resignation of the government and early elections).

Well, we all had our fun, didn't we?

Monday, 19 January 2009

Post-weekend story: Reading the coffee cup

It had been a while since Ira had been to a cafe. It was at Genie's request that they go out to celebrate - or commiserate - their new work contract. The package presented to them was in general terms quite satisfactory, despite the low pay rate: part-time, flexible hours, six weeks paid leave, and all the regular bonuses that Greek employers are expected to provide to their workers. It had all the elements to make it sound like a good offer, but there was only once catch: the salary was based solely on the basic pay rate, without taking into account the fourteen years Ira had already spent in the same job doing the same work; the new contract simply wiped them off her record. They were being paid the salary of a freshman just out of college. Genie, already struggling on a single salary, had already reached her credit limit. Autumn had set in and the tourist season was over. There would be very few other opportunities to pick up more work for the rest of the year.

Ira had always regarded her pay packet as dispensable. As a newly-wed, she declared to her husband that if he wanted to save any money for a new car, an exotic holiday or home renovations, he could do it from his salary; she was going to spend all of hers. After years of living an independent frugal lifestyle, Ira wanted economic freedom, which in her case, meant that her salary was to be spent, not to be put away for a rainy day. Whatever money she brought into the house, which was usually during the winter season, she would use on living comfortably. She paid all the household bills and did the weekly supermarket shopping, in the parsimonious manner of her single days. If there was anything left over, she chose to spend it on the little luxuries in life that boosted one's morale in the dull winter gloom that overtook the island in the shorter days. She took the children to the cinema every now and then, bought her author's latest novel, maybe a few trinkets from the 1-euro shop for the children. The fancy clothes and accessories in the window displays never caught her eye; the consumer society she lived in annoyed her. She hardly ever complained of headaches, but when she returned from a trip into the town centre, it was enough to bring one on. Her eyes hurt at the sights of the flamboyant lifestyles of her compatriots: obese women wearing low-cut jeans that spilled out of their flabby stomachs and fleshy thighs, their cracked scratchy soles sporting delicate swaroski diamante-studded strappy sandals, young people seemingly talking to no one, a hands-free clipped to their ears. She sometimes wished she could stay in the village and pay someone to run all those errands for her, to avoid seeing the worst in the people she lived amongst.

The beach still sported signs of being used: the deckchairs were still arranged in tidy rows in front of the beach bar, and there were quite a few people enjoying the late autumn sunshine. It was still warm enough to swim and sit near the sea, which is why Genie suggested the beach bar. They were both wearing long-sleeved cotton blouses and jeans, typical clothing for the season, but not the most appropriate attire for lounging around on a deckchair.

The cafe was built in the typical manner of the Mediterranean island beach bars. As it operated during the winter months, plastic transparent sheeting had been rolled down to keep the chilly evening air away from the indoor section and heaters had been placed in the central areas of the seating area. As it was a weekday morning, Ira was not surprised to find the cafe virtually empty, save one table where two women sat opposite each other, heads huddled together.

kalamaki 2008

They entered the indoor dining area. "Choose a table and I'll be back in a tick." Genie wanted to use the restroom. Ira chose a table next to the plastic sheeting, with a postcard view of the sea: rolling frothy waves lapping the shoreline, northern European tourists enjoying the sun, toddlers digging up the sand. All this would be gone in a month from now with the last chartered flight out of the island. The beach bars would close down, the deckchairs would disappear, along with the tourists, not to be seen again for another five months. The table was next to the one where the other two women sat. They had chosen the best seat with the best view, slap bang in the middle of the row of tables by the windows, away from the noisy footpath-less road where the traffic was speeding along in both directions. As she pulled out the chair, she looked across at the women and smiled, the customary manner of acknowledging the presence of other people in close range of each other in the same room.

Ira wondered why she always seemed to head for the left-hand side of a table whenever she went out for a drink or a meal. The women looked up at her as she took a seat, only momentarily stopping their conversation to check out the new customers, quickly turning their faces towards each other to continue talking about whatever they were talking about before Ira had caught their attention. Genie had not yet returned from the ladies'. Ira lowered her gaze, so that she did not seem to be staring at the other women. She put her handbag on the chair beside her. Then she picked it up again, making herself stand out a little, like a fidgeting madwoman,and rummaged through it to find her cellphone. She was not expecting a call, nor did she want to make one. In fact, her mobile rang on average twice a week; only her husband called her. She left the phone on the table, and thought about where she should place her handbag again, estimating where Genie would most likely want to sit: probably in the chair opposite her where she would also have a view of the last of the summer suntanners. Ira sat on her own for a few minutes, her face still sporting the smile she had greeted the women with.

They paid no attention to her. Ira had a side view of the woman closest to her, who was rather overweight. Her hair had a glint of red shine to it; despite her age, her hair was pinned back with a fashionable hairpin, the kind that young girls like to sport on their youthful healthy locks, zirconias gleaming at one end in the shape of a daisy flower. This was in complete contrast to the other woman whose hair was short and grey. Her body and clothes matched her tired wrinkled looks, even though she did not look old, maybe in her early 40s. She was a bag of bones, hardly a layer of fat anywhere on her body, a fragile hand holding a glass of frappe coffee, her elbow resting on the table. She wore sunglasses, even though they were indoors. They were both dressed in black top to toe.

A peroxide blonde wide-hipped waitress, hips and tummy exposed over tracksuit pants and a tight pink lycra top came to take Ira's order. She was not carrying a menu card, which was not unusual; two women coming into a cafe at this hour could only be having something similar to what the other two women were having, coffee or fruit juice, something to keep their hands busy while they chatted about nothing in particular, something to pay for the time that they would be spending in the cafe. A drink at a cafe on a Mediterranean island is kind of like paying rent to the cafe owner for letting you enjoy a picturesque view from a prime location. Genie had asked Ira to order a frappe for her.

"A decaf frappe, metrio, no milk, and..."

Ira hesitated. She rarely visited such establishments, preferring her home-made coffee over any other. She was feeling uncomfortable; she didn't know the modern names of the cafe coffee varieties. What was that coffee called, the cold version of a long cool frappe that wasn't made with instant powder, and had a creamy frothy topping? She had been longing to have one of those coffees at a seaside cafe just like the one she was sitting at now, but whenever she had been anywhere near a place like this with her husband, she was always accompanied by her children. Long cool drinks cannot be imbibed in the relaxed manner warranted when there are two primary schoolers constantly attracting her attention.

"... a frey-chee-no?" She spoke softly, the syllable coming out spluttered, as she sensed a rising tone in her voice, a clear indication that she did not know how to ask for what she wanted. This was probably how her parents felt when they first emigrated, not when they ordered a restaurant meal (did they ever go to a New Zealand restaurant, Ira wondered), but when they asked the grocer for simple things like tinned cornbeef (kobif) or milk tokens (milkadockas).

"And an espresso." The waitress repeated what she thought she heard. "Anything else?"

making greek coffee

"Elliniko," she replied, "not an espresso." The waitress did not even bat an eyelid; she probably thought Ira was a foreigner (she still retained a hint of foreignness in her Greek accent) and didn't know how to ask for a Greek coffee. Ira felt like a fraud for not trying to ask for that fredduccino or freddo cappucino, or whatever it was called, making it sound as though the waitress had misunderstood her, and not the other way around.

Whatever. Ira decided not to try asking again for an ice coffee, lest she expose more ignorance on her part of modern cafe parlance. Genie had returned, and sat where Ira had predicted she would. Ira still had a clear side view of the obese woman, and a full facial of the gaunt-faced one. The fat one now moved her chair and sat face to face with the thin one; her view of the sea was not obscured, but she would have to turn her head by ninety degrees to have a better view of it. Her rather large posterior faced Ira.

Genie took out her cigarettes. "So that's it, then?" she sighed, her voice bringing Ira back to her own preoccupations, forgetting about the women on the other table.

"I guess so. I'm not happy about it," she lied, "but I suppose it's better than being unemployed." Her last sentence was not a lie. Life on a Mediterranean island was tough during the winter. Most people worked seasonally all year round, doing very different work from one season to the other. The hotel owners would all be managing their olive fields in the winter, which could take them right up to the beginning of the next tourist season when the hotels opened up for business again. Ira and Genie would be employed on steady hours for the whole year round. Everyone thought that their job was perfect. They would not have to pick up the dole during their unemployed period, their hours were flexible, the pay was standardised. They never worked evenings and their work environment was pleasant. In the opinion of the townspeople, they had a very good job.

proofreading

When people asked Ira what she did for a living, she would often reply 'cleaning lady.' And in fact her job did entail cleaning in a sense. She proofread and corrected other people's writing, re-wrote whole segments of theses written by science graduates, translated from Greek to English and English to Greek. She had even acted as an interpreter at a conference once. She was polishing other people's English skills, sweeping up their grammar, cleaning their spelling, decorating their vocabulary. She felt more comfortable explaining to her acquaintances that her job was similar to theirs, which was usually shop assistant, farm worker or cleaning lady. She felt it earned her more empathy from the local people, most of whom hadn't finished school, let alone earned a university degree.

"We're a scientific research centre, not an English school," her boss had pointed out in their meeting that morning. "We could do away with English lessons altogether, as most other research centres have already done." Ira was not perturbed by the thought that she could be out of a job; her husband made enough to keep the family. It was Genie who was in financial turmoil.

The fat woman stretched out her arm to the table to reach what looked like a fruit cocktail, her long manicured fingers swaddling the delicate glass. Ira's view of orange juice served at a cafe bar was based largely on the fact that her husband's orange groves were not profitable as the costs of maintenance and irrigation were higher than the money earned from them. The orange industry on the island was running at a loss, while tourists were paying three euro for a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

"You know you're better off than me," Genie continued. "You're married. Your husband can support you. I'm on my own, up to my ears in debt. There are times I can't even afford a bus ticket!" She offered Ira a cigarette, even though she knew that Ira didn't smoke; it was part of Genie's friendly generous character. Ira had always liked her, despite the completely different lifestyles they led. She lit her cigarette and inhaled. As she let out the smoke, she seemed to be relieving herself of the built up pressure she had been facing at the prospect of being jobless. "Does your husband ever expect you to help out in the household expenses, Ira?"

She knew about Genie's ex, how he left the unpaid bills on the bed, poured all his profits into his business, and went bankrupt, which, according to Genie, was the cause of their permanent separation. Meanwhile, Genie was always dressed in the latest fashion, sporting all the appropriate accessories to match, never cooked at home, and spent a fortune on telephone bills to her family abroad.

"I pay what I can." Ira did not like to admit that she paid everything. It would sound unbelievable. "I guess having a vegetable garden helps." The two women lived on different tangents of the same world. Ira's was all about orange and olive trees, an organised kitchen, a well-stocked deep-freeze, no takeouts, and a cheap taverna meal out only once in a while. She kept her thoughts to herself. The coffee session did not have the celebratory nature it was supposed to to have. Genie was in one of her moods, while Ira, as usual, looked unruffled.

to flitzani the coffee cup

The waitress came with the coffees. She placed them deftly on the table. "Stin iyia sas." They both smiled.

"Hey, I thought you didn't like Greek coffee." Genie was quick to point out that one in her loud American accent. Genie had been working with her well over a decade; she only ordered hot instant coffee from the canteen at work, even in the summer, which most people found unusual.

"Isn't the view marvellous?" Ira decided to try out a new direction in the conversation, her voice sounding a fraction of decibel higher than Genie's. The women sitting opposite them seemed to have heard her, for they had raised their heads to look out the window, in search of what it was Ira had seen that looked noteworthy.

Ira brought the demi-tasse close to her lips, its smoky smell overtaking her sense of smell. It had been freshly brewed, the frothy layer was unbroken, the heat of the coffee drifting onto her hands as she held the cup. She took a small sip, feeling the powdery residue of the coffee on her tongue, as she reminded herself not to drink it too quickly, even though she liked her coffee hot. When she had first come to Greece, her Athenian cousin had taken her to a cafe, and ordered her a frappe. Despite the fact that it was the middle of winter, Ira had drunk it all within the space of a quarter of an hour, what she had been used to doing on a coffee break at work in New Zealand. Her cousin exclaimed in a horrified tone: "Well now that you've drunk it all, what are you going to do for the next two hours here?" Going out for a coffee in Greece was not the same as having a coffee during a work break.

Genie was harping on about her expenses. "There's DEH, OTE, and the water bill, they're pretty much standard every month. Hang on, there's my cellphone, that's standard, too. Take out food, bus fare, cabs, they're weekly. Then there's a wedding or baptism present every fortnight" - Genie mixed in much wider social circles than Ira, despite her single status - "and a meal out every Friday with the girls." More unattached wannabe-married drop-outs, Ira thought. "Don't you go out with your family for a meal once a week, Ira? We always went out for dinner once a week in the US. It's so depressing staying indoors all the time, eating alone."

Ira felt sorry for her. She had been in the single position for many years, and knew how Genie must be feeling: tired of being alone, embittered about not getting any younger, wondering if there will ever be a Mr Right. "I know how you feel, and you should get out more. I'd hate to be cooped up in an apartment all alone every night." Most of all, she hated the thought of living in an apartment. She had lived a semi-privileged life, never having to live in a house without a panoramic view of the city. Even in the days when Ira was renting an apartment in the middle of town, her view of the sky had never been obscured. It was a priority for her on equal terms with price.

"At least you're not renting," Ira reminded her friend. Genie was lucky to own her own home. Her rich Greek American parents had gifted her an apartment near the sea - alas, it faced the sea - when she first met her ex. When the relationship ended, Genie ended up with a home and guilty feelings about moving back to the States after her parents' sacrifices. Ira found it difficult to relate to Genie's tirades regarding her financial turmoil. Her own home was acquired through the hard work of her husband and her own frugality, as they had built a house on top of his own family home without taking out a loan. An open-plan kitchen-cum-living room was where they spent their first night as newly-weds, adding to the basic construction when their savings permitted. As she listened to Genie's rants, she watched the blackrobed women from the corner of her eyes. The skinny one was waving her hands in the air, in a descriptive gesture to emphasise a point she was making, while the chubby lady was nodding her head in sympathy.

to flitzani the coffee cup to flitzani the coffee cup

Ira had almost finished her Elliniko while Genie hadn't even reached half-way down the frappe glass. Ira felt it her duty to keep picking up the demi-tasse, even though it was practically empty. It gave her something to do with her hands. She noticed that the other women had not finished thier drinks, making her more conscious of her abnormal behaviour in an environment that she had never become familiar with in the way she thought she would when she first came to live on the island. Everyone she had met knew frequented cafes, everyone except herself that is, and she wondered at the time whether this would come in time for her, as a natural consequence of living in the place, or if she herself had to make an effort to be known amongst the circles of friends she had made from work to invite her out. For some reason, they never did. She had never worked out the answer to that riddle. Apart from feeling alone during the holiday and festive periods, it didn't really bother her; she loved being alone. Even now as a wife and mother, she recalled her quieter days with a hint of nostalgia.

to flitzani the coffee cup

Out of habit, Ira brought the demi-tasse to her lips. The muddy residue of the powdery coffee left a furry feeling on her tongue. She quickly withdrew the cup from her mouth and was about to set it on the saucer when she changed course mid-air. She swirled the coffee cup around a few times so that the coffee grounds were unsettled and had stained half the side of the cup a dirty brown to its mid-point. She proceeded to upturn the cup onto the saucer, the muddy mixture pouring haphazardly over the saucer. She had never done this before, and was glad that the coffee grounds did not spill over the saucer and dirty the tablecloth, because she would have looked ridiculous.

"Hey, I didn't know you read coffee cups!" Genie laughed. "What can you see in it?"

When Ira did drink Greek coffee, which was very rarely, she usually let the coffee grounds settle at the bottom of the cup, so that it would make it easier to dispose of them. They often stuck to the dish rag, which needed to be rinsed a few times to make sure that they were flushed away. This time, Ira picked up the cup carefully, uprighting it so that the patterns made by the coffee grounds were not spoiled, and could make a convincing prediction.

*** *** ***

Genie had always been a little wary of her colleague. Ira had the look of a submissive wife, but she could be totally unpredictable at times. When Ira had gotten married, she didn't invite anyone from the office. Her colleagues only found out when she asked for leave to take a belated honeymoon. She kept her private life to herself, but she had a very welcoming nature. Every week, she baked a cake or some biscuits and shared them among the office staff. Her husband, a rather attractive man who looked more Scandinavian than Cretan, seemed the exact opposite of Ira: his manners were refined, his outlook sensitive, his dress sense fashionable, which is why Genie was surprised to learn that he was a taxi driver. Being a regular taxi customer, Genie wondered which taxi rank he frequented, as she had never had the pleasure of being chauffered by him.

For all her plain looks, Genie knew that Ira wasn't as simple as she made out to be. She dumbfounded the whole office once again at a work-related function, when she appeared to be rubbing shoulders with the manager of the biggest bank in the town. She had pots of money but never made a show of it; she never wore make-up, her clothes seemed to hang on her like used paper bags, and her car was full of dings and dents. She could never figure out what it was that made Ira hide behind a screen. Despite her short stout stature, her face was unblemished, giving her a youthful look. Even though she was considered chubby, she didn't exhibit the bulge factor, which was already creeping into Genie's contours, marking a quicker passage of time. A fresher, more exuberant Ira was slowly revealing herself during their meeting, as if the blight that had passed over Ira was starting to fade.

to flitzani the coffee cup to flitzani the coffee cup

"I hardly drink enough Elliniko to be an expert in it," Ira replied quickly, "I like the fun of it." Ira was smiling, something she did not often do, as she stared into the cup.

"I wish we could sometimes know what the future holds for us." Genie was being whimsical. Her financial dilemmas dominated her mind most of the time; what she would do to receive advance notice of her financial situation next year. She had thought about going to a fortune teller, but the cost was simply prohibitive for her at the time.

"You know something," Ira spoke confidently, "I think this coffee cup is telling me your future, Genie, not mine." Ira's studious face brightened up suddenly, smiling full of glee. Her eyes were making quick movements back and ofrth as she surveyed the cup. Genie was slightly startled by her friend's illogical rambling, a woman who had built her whole life on sound reasoning, never overspending her credit card limit, washing dishes by hand to save energy. Among the other staff, she had earned the reputation of a hard liner, which is possibly what had kept her aloof, slightly distanced from her peers. She had shocked the office with her opinion about the evil eye, after having made it abundantly clear in her own astute way that no one can ever mathisaso her because, in her own words, 'there is no such thing'. The evil eye was one tradition that even the most open-minded locals who had rid themselves fo the shekels of popular culture preferred to maintain, as a convenient cover for their misdemeanours.

"Oh, you had that coffee," Genie reminded her. "That can't be my life in there," she added, her voice indicating that she did actually hope the coffee cup would bring good tidings for her, even if only as a morale booster.

"Yes, but..." Ira's voice trailed off as she grimaced, bringing her furry eyebrows together. "I'm happily married, and this cup's showing love. Look for yourself. There's a heart-shaped mound of coffee grounds. Θα ερωτευτείς, Genie!" Ira sounded excited, her voice was slowly rising in both tone and pitch.

Genie looked inside the cup. Ira wasn't making itup; the coffee grounds had indeed made the shape of a near-perfect heart. Ira can't have created it herself. The coffee cup had been upturned in the space of a couple of seconds; surely Ira had nothing to do with where the grounds stuck. She was intrigued to find out more, still unsure of whether to take the whole scene seriously.

"So who I am in love with?" she asked.

Ira had not taken her eyes off the cup. "There's a large vacuum of space above the left-hand side of the heart, see here?" She pointed to a white space where the grounds had left very little of their residue. "This probably signifies the period of time that you've spent alone since your relationship broke up." Ira looked up at Genie. "This is your cup, Genie. I never had an in-between relationship period in my lovelife. My husband was the only one."

This was all too credible for Genie. She now fully understood Ira's relationship with her husband; the poor man was probably scared of his own shadow in her presence. Her mind wandered to her ex, Kosta, the manwho stole her heart, the only one in her eyes, the love of her life. She had still not gotten over his leaving. In any case, she couldn't have left him, since they were living in her house. Despite his monetary shortcomings, Kosta's bedroom antics were unsurpassable, at least in comparison with her former boyfriends in the US. Kosta epitomised the Greek lover she had dreamed about and hoped to find when she first came to Greece.

"Can you see the tree beside the empty space?" Ira pointed to the zig-zag lines branching downwards to the centre of the cup. Θα γίνεις πλούσια! Genie, he's got money!"

It was not unusual to switch between Greek and English in everyday conversation among the ex-patriot community. Most of the time, native English speakers with a Greek background conversed in English, switching to Greek when they couldn't think of the word they wanted. Sometimes the exact meaning couldn't be translated because it reprented a different concept in one or the other language and could not be expressed without sounding over-wordy and explanatory. The idea of 'privacy' was a classic example of a word that did not have a good Greek equivalent, and Ira seemed to have completely forgotten that this conversation was extending beyond the borders of privacy with her booming voice resonating in the near-empty cafe. What would the people around them be thinking? Greek was however a perfect lingusitic choice for reading το φλυτζάνι; it seemed most befitting that Ira should perform this task in the appropriate language, lending her predictions credibility.

Genie's thoughts were interrupted by a chair behind her bumping into the one she was sitting on. She turned round to see if she was in anyone's way and noticed an extra-large woman moving her chair so that she was back to back with Genie, making her feel slightly uncomfortable scrunched up close to the table. Genie moved her chair slightly.

"Τί άλλο, τί άλλο...," Ira was beginning to sound like an experienced cup reader. Had she really not done this before? She was staring intently into the cup, and had now swtitched to speaking Greek to express her predicitons.

"Aaaaah," Ira's voice was sounding a tad too loud, given the atmpsphere of an empty cafe. She could be heard by the counter staff, as well as the next table. "Κρίμα, θά'νε γέρος!"

"Hey, I don't care how old he is," Genie was just beginning to enjoy herself at this point, made apparent by her own language switch to Greek. "Just as long as he's rich!" They both exploded into laughter.


Genie was just about to ask Ira how the age factor of her future lover had shown up in the φλυτζάνι when she heard a scuttling noise coming from behind her, as the chairs from the next table scraped across the tiled floor. Genie pressed her body - mainly her midriff which had the shape of a bulgy spare tire - to the table. The women behind her were getting ready to leave. The overweight woman was hurriedly tossing her possessions into her bag.

They other women were still in the cafe as Ira's voice reached a crescendo with what was to be her final prediction.

"And he's gonna die three years after you marry him" - she was now speaking embarrassingly loudly - "but you inherit everything!"

*** *** ***

The fat woman glanced at Ira, who was smiling self-confidently, her face returning to her normal serene level. "ΣΚΥΛΑ!" she cried, clutching her bag close to her as she raced ahead to catch up with the other woman, who was of course much quicker than herself, being only a third of her weight. Genie watched the scene unfolding before her eyes with a dumbfounded look. She wasn't sure who to look at first: the odd-looking pair of black-clad women racing out of the cafe, the stunned cafe staff, or her friend, who sat motionless, unperturbed by the events that had just unfolded before them.

"Who was that meant for?" Genie finally asked, after what seemed like an hour, but was in fact only a quarter of a minute. "Did you know them?"

Ira kept smiling as she watched the immense posterior of her late father's wife crashing against the chairs as she made her way to the exit with her sister; she had not seen or heard from the woman since her father's death, although word had spread via relatives that her mother had died a few months ago. Ira shrugged her shoulders, shook her head and frowned. "I must have touched a raw nerve somewhere," she said, as Genie stared at her incredulously.

The coffee grounds had now subsided, distorted by whatever moisture had been left in the cup; the storm had passed.

Genie interrupted the brief silence. "So, what exactly do I inherit?" she inquired.

And this one is for Aris, who helped me finish the story.
©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Friday, 26 December 2008

Cafe culture

koukouvayia cafe hania chania
No, I'm not at Starbucks, but Greeks love to copy brands, labels and names. This one is done more stylishly; I picked up the paper coffee mat at Koukouvayia cafe in Akrotiri, Hania. 'Koukouvayia' is the Greek word for 'owl'.

Tuesday, 11 November 2008

Palia Ilektriki

Hania has a few sports facilities spaced around the town, some of which include: the track and field stadium in the centre,

stadium hania chania

the new gymnasium near the sea,

kleisto gymnastorio nea hora hania chania

and an old gymnasium on the outskirts of town, known as Palia Ilektriki, because it was built on a site where the state electricity company was formerly located (which is why the whole area has a shabby look to it).

palia ilektriki gym hania chania

One of my daughter's tennis lessons took place at Palia Ilektriki. While she was busy, I had to figure out what to do to keep my son occupied. There was what looked like a cafe across the road from the gym, which I noticed was closed. No surprise, as it was a Wednesday afternoon, when shops are closed and the town isn't so busy. Tables and chairs were still set outside it, even though the weather is cooling down now.

cafe gogoni street hania chania

We went there to rest on one of the chairs so my son could finish his homework. No one moved us away, which I was quite thankful about, especially when I saw the sign on one of the windows of the cafe: "No entry to under-18s". We weren't entering it anyway, but I wonder if they would allow under-18s to enter if accompanied by an adult. Probably a poker house...

Tuesday, 19 August 2008

Outdoor fun park

My children were invited to a children's birthday party held at an outdoor fun park. They played in a balloon adventure park for nearly four hours without getting bored once. The parents enjoyed their margaritas in the cool evening breeze, as well as some pastry desserts and the leftovers of the children's pizza dinner.

outdoor fun park hania chania

The fun park is located half a kilometre from the beach, about two kilometres from where I live. It is located at the centre of tourist activity: there is a huge INKA supermarket across the road, and the area is surrounded by hotels, tavernas and shops catering for the tourist trade. During the day, the outdoor area doesn't operate due to the harsh sun. The balloons are pumped up after 6pm, when people start leaving the beach. People kept arriving at the fun park all hours of the evening, which was a very warm one (we were at the start of a heatwave).

As a family outing, it isn't cheap; children pay an entrance fee of 5 euro, with an orange juice included, but there's also the cost of food and drinks for the rest of the family. Then there are other attractions which are not included in the entrance fee (not pictured): each go-cart costs 1 euro per ride, and there are many other similar rides to choose from. As a children's function venue, however, it is very cost-effective: others do the work for you, and you don't have to clean up afterwards.

outdoor fun park hania chania

Despite living a stone's throw away from this amusement centre, which also houses a bowling alley on its roof and pinball machines indoors, I had never been there before. It has a desolate look as you pass it on the main road during the day. It is also greatly reminiscent of the plastic world we live in, with its artificial lights and well-kept lawns, despite the electricity and water shortages we face throughout the summer.

Nevertheless, I had a great time sitting in the cool evening breeze while the children amused themselves independently. Even my airy house with its top-floor balcony could not compete with this place. We got home just before midnight, having thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Saturday, 16 August 2008

Morning coffee

Today I have to make sure that I get to do every single errand that involves going into Hania, as it's the last day my children are at day camp (ie being supervised by someone else). After parking the car a zillion miles away from the centre (as usual), and carrying a computer screen in my hands (it broke down while under guarantee), I started on the little tasks that make me walk from one end of Hania to the other every time I need I go into my hectic little town, with its erratic traffic problems which are always exacerbated in the summer.

Coupled with the congestion, there is the heat. Sweat poured down my back, my clothes were sticking to my skin, my head felt as if it were on fire. To make things worse, I had forgotten to fill my water bottle from my home, meaning that I was carrying extra useless weight in my bag aside from mizithra, okra, vine beans, children's books, among others. My mouth was dry, my body slowly dehydrating, and it was only half past nine. I needed a sit-down in the shade with something cool to drink.

My errands had taken up to the Agora, behind which there is a large square with cafes and bars surrounding it. I walked along the road and chose the first empty space offering ample shade; the name of the cafe and what it served did not interest me at that moment. In fact, whenever I'm eating out, the food and where it comes from never interests me, because I know that I can never be sure of the truth of anything the restaurateur claims about the menu. Luckily for those who live in Hania, when eating out, there is usually a choice of views, scenery and atmosphere to enjoy apart from the food: this is the motivating reason for me to eat out.

My view was not the most alluring: double parked cars, souvenir shops, tacky jewellery stores and other nondescript eyesores. Even the sight of the tourists who were milling about the area - a well-known tourist spot which may also be referred to as a trap by some - was not uplifting: after a certain point, one easily tires of seeing old-fashioned travel book images from a bygone era, young lasses clad in bikini tops and wraparound skirts and bare-chested men, their shoulders laden with a dusty backpack, in the middle of the town where we all conduct both our formal and informal business. As AA says, this is the image most people still have of Greece: a place where everyone lives by the sea beating octopuses on rocks and traveling by donkey. My tired feet and aching arms had not foiled my senses.

ano kato cafe hania chania

I looked up, spotting the name of the cafe: Ano kato: Serraiki Bougatsa, which could loosely be translated as "Topsy Turvy: Sweet Pie from Serres." Bougatsa from Serres? Foreign food, food that our foreign tourists are aching for, the term foreigners including urbanite Greek travellers from Athens, the kind who buy bougatsa in Athens which bears no resemblance to the bougatsa served in Hania, the kind of place a non-Cretan Greek would look for if words like boureki, dakos and stamnagathi scare them, fearing the unknown as we all do to some extent, which is why many of us will search for a Casa di Pasta restaurant in Thailand, or a burger chain in China.

"Parakalo?" Just when I was thinking that this might be a self-service cafe, the waiter had arrived, carrying a serving tray with coffees and glasses of water with lots of ice cubes. He had been busy preparing orders to be served to the local shop-owners, another one of those traditions which gives Greece a picture-postcard image: a waiter crossing the street with a tray of refreshments, specially ordered by businesspeople. No messing around with the cafetiere for them; silver service that even the plebs can enjoy. He left one of the glasses of water on my table.

Being on a diet - always one that is broken - I had left the house without having breakfast, so I decided to order some bougatsa, in full knowledge that it would contain three times the number of claories that my home-made breakfast would contain. I noticed the food display case: croissants, rolls, pastries, but which of all of them was the Serraiki bougatsa?

"A plunger coffee and a serving of bougatsa, please."
"The bougatsa's going to be ready in about ten minutes," he replied very politely. I was beginning to like this place.
"No problem," I smiled, I'm in no hurry."
He smiled too. "And you know it's the cream-type of bougatsa." Oh, the joy of being treated like a local...

ano kato cafe hania chania

As it was still early morning for some, the cafe was empty. I was being kept company by three empty seats round my table. I laid all my bags on the seat opposite mine, when it occurred to me that those inanimate objects might just have a better view than I did. I got up and changed places with the bags.

ano kato cafe hania chaniaano kato cafe hania chania

My whole world changed. No more cars and tacky souvenirs. I saw a different world: traditional handcrafts and woven textiles, a huge linden tree, the wall of the main square where the Cathedral of Hania is located. The most basic elements of the area had probably not changed since my parents' time before they left Crete to emigrate to New Zealand. I wondered whether they had walked in the same side street - probably it had not been pedestrianised in their time - before they left the country. It had the kind of look we are familiar with in those old Greek black and white movies which I used to see at the cinema in Wellington during a private screening for the Greek community.

old port hania chaniaold port hania chania

The ten minutes it took for the bougatsa to arrive passed pleasantly watching the shop owners waiting for business, sweeping the outside of their shops and chatting to their neighbours. A hotel owner sat in the alley opposite with a bowl of uncleaned horta reading her newspaper. Even the cobblestones on the street took on a new interest.

bougatsa serraiki

Serraiki bougatsa was surely very different to the bougatsa traditionally served in Hania: custard instead of mizithra cheese, icing sugar and cinnamon instead of white granulated sugar. Even the filo pastry tasted different. But it was tasty and made perfect breakfast fare. If only the woman who's always serving at the counter in Bougatsa Iordanis could be as polite as the waiter at Ano Kato...

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Saturday, 2 August 2008

The park of peace and friendship

I love juicy blackberries, I'd eat the damn lot
if these were blackberries, but they are not.
They're inedible berries that turn green and black,
that pretty pink flower - it's quite cherubic.

CIMG4437

They're found in a park in my little town's centre
which no one has bothered to open for summer.
Why is it that our local council did not
lease out the canteen to refresh us when hot?

CIMG4431

Wait till you hear what the council has named it
EIRHNIS FILIAS - Park of Peace and Friendship.
It does seem quite peaceful in an eerie manner,
but where are the friends who can play in its theater?

It's boiling in Hania on a daily basis,
but no one seems interested in kids' happy faces;
when I sit with my children in this empty park
I wonder if it's safe to walk through in the dark.

We could be out here in the late evening time
watching the clock tower calling out its chime
that it's not too late to go home, not quite yet,
that we can always wait at least till sunset.

CIMG4436

Maybe the council does not understand English
and I should have chosen some other language
to voice my opinion; maybe in Greek,
maybe that is what would make them all think.

Why did the council spend money to build this,
when all it does now is grow tired and listless?
There should be some children running up and down,
to light up the life of this little town.

Had it been owned by some private business
it would have been operating right until Christmas.
It's never too cold to sit out in the sun;
even in winter, Hania's weather's fun.

Instead of a canteen all busy and running
for townies who find it too far to go swimming,
we must contend with a locked up cafe
and turn on the A/C to cool off the day.



As for real blackberries, I know where they grow;
in fields in the village, they're used as hedgerows.
As a gourmet, I know when they're best.
Most people don't know them; they think they are pests.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Thursday, 10 July 2008

The well of the Turk



What do you think you will find if you walk 50m up the road to the well of the Turk? This sign is found in Splantzia, on one of the high walled narrow buildings in the maze of streets that was once the Arabian-Turkish area of Hania.

Friday, 16 May 2008

Skywatch Friday: The old harbour of Chania


It's SkyWatch Friday again and today's weather is calm, breezy and mild.

Anyone for coffee? What about an ice-cream or a fizzy drink? Maybe just a souvenir? The beautiful old port of Hania is calling out to passersby, tempting them into it with its calm waters. The dome of the former mosque is barely visible behind the open white umbrellas.

Wednesday, 14 May 2008

ABC Wednesday: The municipal gardens


It's ABC Wednesday, and Q is for quirky, as is this tree.

This tree trunk has been exposed to form part of the concrete fence of the municipal gardens of Hania. The gnarled roots are draped with a climbing plant and they look magnificent.

The park is found in the town centre. It houses an open-air cinema and live chess in the summer, there is a lake with a few ducks, and there's also one of the most modern children's parks in the whole town, attached to the children's public library, which we use right throughout the winter. A few animals are also kept there in cages, but this part of the park is being phased out. In the middle of the park, there is large indoor-outdoor cafe, a regular haunt for locals on a Sunday morning where you often see them reading a Sunday newspaper. One of the walls enclosing the park (across the road from the stadium) also contains a clock tower.

The park has special significance for me because my parents owned an apartment close to the park. When my father sat out on the 2metre-by-4metre balcony, he was very thankful that he didn't have to stare into another person's apartment. His view was of the little road right in front of the apartment block's main entrance, which led straight to the park's main entrance, only a few metres to the left of where this photo was taken.

Monday, 12 May 2008

Souvenirs


Souvenirs, anyone?

The ceramics trade in my town has always played an important role in the tourist trade. These ceramics are being sold at the old port, the most significant tourist site in my town. I live close to a tourist beach which is lined with ceramics shops, but it could also be called a dying trade because the kilns are not worth operating these days, and are closing down. This could only mean that we are probably going to be importing a lot of our tourists' souvenirs, probably from China - where else?

Sunday, 4 May 2008

Cafe culture


Greeks just love their outdoor cafe culture. Even if the sun isn't shining, they can't keep away from it. This is a central city road, and the young men are relaxing with their mobile phones, frappe coffees and cigarettes at this cafe on a narrow street in the shopping district, completely oblivious to the hustle and bustle of the town around them.

Friday, 25 April 2008

Dining out


I don't know if this tempts your taste buds, but it was a lovely night out for all my family, including the little laughing olive tree. The outdoor mezedopoleio-ouzerie (think 'bistro' in English) was located right next to the town beach in Koum Kapi, not too far away from Minoos St. Another lovely outing with the little laughing olive tree. As it is GOOD FRIDAY today according to the Greek Easter calendar, our food this week has been lenten, hence no meat, fish (shellfish are allowed) or dairy products.

Thursday, 24 April 2008

Hania by night


Here's Hania's waterfront on a warm evening, which turned everyone out onto the Old Port (the former mosque is to the left). This is just what the little laughing olive tree wanted to do when she visited me - sit at a outdoor cafe bar, sipping martinis all night, and people-watching...

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

ABC Wednesday: The High St




It's ABC WEDNESDAY again, and N is for NATTY (meaning: stylish)

Here's a view of the main road in Hania (the famous Agora is on the right, right next to the trees). The natty old port is found behind the Agora. This photograph was taken yesterday at midday, while I was having a natty ice-cream with a natty little laughing olive tree on the top-floor of a natty cafe called CLOCK, on a day when the fecking weather report forecast cool temperatures between 20-24 degrees Celsius - the temperature went up to 37 degrees Celsius. We felt like potatoes roasting in the oven.

(More about what I got up to with the little laughing olive tree tomorrow...)

Saturday, 19 April 2008

The kafeneio


If I were retired, and living in the middle of town, and it was a fine day, this is what I'd want to be doing, and this is where I'd go to do it - meet my friends at the local kafeneio (cafe), a predominantly male domain, where the local males meet up with each other, have something to drink, talk politics, read the newspaper, and keep out of women's way. This kafeneio is near Saturday's street market, a place to buy local produce.